I weave my way by bus, from Murter, an island in the Adriatic Sea, via Šibenik on the coast, to Gospić, in the mountainous region of Lika. I pass the aquamarine Adriatic, venture over bright white chalky rubble, and glide through lush green hills. Arresting varied landscapes hold my attention, so that when I arrive at my first destination, I barely notice three hours have passed.